By Erin Harryman

Most people think owning houseplants and taking care of them is pretty hard. As much as I want to say that it actually is really easy, I can’t. Owning houseplants is a lot more complicated than sticking a plant in a window and making sure it gets watered when it needs to. You have to take into consideration what soil a plant needs, lighting requirements, pot size, pot types, and pretty much everything else you wouldn’t ever think about. If you own just a few plants it’s very easy to manage and take care of them. However, if you’re like me and own over 50 of them, that is a whole different ball game. Most people would see the amount of care required for that many plants as a chore, I see it as peace and relaxation. Getting to see your hard work pay off through the growth and liveliness of them is what makes it that way. This is all because of giving the plants proper care, love, and time. Once you understand their needs and why, owning them becomes so much easier. To make it easier to understand the needs for the different genera, I will break it down by each one. 

Philodendrons, Syngoniums, Monsteras, and Anthuriums

Philodendrons, Syngoniums, Monsteras, and Anthuriums are all a part of the plant family called Araceae. Aracae are mainly native to the tropical areas of Central and South America. The Araceae family is also more commonly known as aroids. There are approximately 450 known species of philodendrons. They come in many different colors, shapes, and sizes. Philodendrons and Syngoniums are good beginner plants because of their more minimal requirements and needs. Syngoniums have an arrowhead shape to their leaves. They start out as climbers, but once mature can start to vine. Their care can vary from other plants, this is because they require more minimal care and can survive pretty much anywhere you put them. Although, just because they can survive anywhere does not mean they will thrive there. Monsteras are in closest relation to Philodendrons. However, they sometimes can require a little more needs, especially if they are variegated. This is because they need more lighting to support the growth of the leaves and to aid in maintaining variegation. They can also grow a lot bigger, and do require something to climb or latch onto in order to mature. They require very strategic placing. Anthuriums on the other hand can be on the more complex side. Anthuriums want a warmer climate, and do want more humidity. It’s not the end all if you do not provide this. They can adapt to household environments. They do rely on fertilizing more than most plants though. Here is some things to know about the care of the aroid family:

• Type of substrate

• • They like an airy mix that can take in water but still allow the roots to breathe.
  • I like to mix my own substrate at home with specific amendments. I use a soilless mix for my plants. This includes:

LECA (lightweight expanded clay aggregate)	LECA stores water and the roots absorb it as it is released.
Perlite (white heat-expanded volcanic rock)	Very airy and lightweight, as well as aerates the soil so the roots have spaces to get oxygenated while still being hydrated. Helps prevent rot from happening.
Orchid Bark (fir bark)	Gives the roots something to latch onto, which lets the roots get thicker because they have a surface to expand on. Mimics the roots being able to grow up trees like they do in their native environments.
Coco Coir (shredded coconut shell shavings)	Helps retain amounts of water so that the roots don’t absorb excess amounts at one time.  Stays airy even when wet, which makes it easier for the roots to grow and travel.
Worm Castings (worm poopies)	Natural fertilizer that the roots can absorb as needed rather than having to receive fertilizer every watering. Helps keep the pH balance maintained/acts as a barrier for the plant’s roots.
Activated Charcoal	It is a natural antimicrobial compound which helps absorb all of the bad toxins and prevents fungal and bacterial growth. Big help in the prevention of root rot, and stimulates the growth of roots.

• I also like to use moss or water when rooting cuttings that I have taken from my plants or received.
• I use moss the most because it is a very airy substrate amendment and is very hard to overwater plants with. Meaning it prevents root rot. With the moss being so airy, the roots can travel much more, and stay more oxygenated. This stimulates them to grow much quicker and thicker.

• Types of pots 

• • • I like to use terracotta pots the most. This is because terracotta is made of clay and is very porous. I like this because it aids in preventing overwatering by allowing the pot to wick away excess water and aids in the exchange of gasses. Oxygen is able to enter through the porous parts of the pot to get to the roots. This also helps the toxic gasses and mineral build up to be absorbed through the pot and away from the roots.
      • However, some people dislike these pots because they can make the substrate dry out much quicker. Leading to dry rot and roots dying because they aren’t getting the adequate amounts of moisture that they need.
    • You never want to pot a plant in a pot that is too big. General rule of thumb is to only pot a plant in a pot that is 1-2” bigger than the size of the root ball.
      • Too big of a pot can lead to the substrate not drying quick enough and the substrate retaining water. This can lead to the roots not getting adequate oxygen. In turn, that is how root rot happens. 

• Lighting

• • • All of these genera generally live within a forest and get light through the canopies of the trees above which is considered indirect. However, I grow mine in bright, pretty much direct, light. I have only ever experienced burn twice with this arrangement. The more color variances the leaves have, the higher lighting they want. 

• Fertilizing

• • • All indoor plants need supplementation for the nutrients and minerals that they would naturally get in their native habitats. Indoors, they lack in receiving these and will need to be given these nutrients in order to survive.

• Watering

• • I water my plants based on the weight of the pot or the look of the leaves. Essentially, if the pot feels really light when I pick it up, compared to the weight after watering, then generally I will water. Although, sometimes that isn’t a definitive sign that it’s time to water. Sometimes the pot can feel light but the substrate is still plenty damp. Every so often I will rely on the look of the leaves. Meaning, if they’re droopy, if there are color changes, or if the leaves are dying. All of those can be signs that the plant is thirsty and/or the plant has received too much water leading to retention in the substrate. 
  • A common mistake people make when trying to determine water needs is using moisture meters. Moisture meters can often misread moisture levels within soil. Especially if you’re using a soilless substrate. They can also be an issue because they can’t accurately read all levels of the soil, only the direct area you place it in. If checking the moisture levels in the substrate, I prefer to use a knitting needle, or wooden dowel. This is because *if* the substrate is still wet or damp when you stick either of them in the soil, then anything that is wet or damp will stick on them when you pull them out. Truly showing if portions of the substrate are actually wet or damp, and giving an indication of how wet or damp it is. 

Hoyas 

Hoyas are known for their thick waxy leaves. They come in many varieties anywhere from their leaf shape, size, coloring, texture, etc. Each species of Hoya is very unique. They can either climb or vine. Meaning, you can give them a pole and watch them climb up, or you could put them in a hanging pot and let them vine down. As Hoyas age, their stems get thicker and harden like wood. Like many plants, Hoyas produce beautiful flowers. These flowers can be many different colors, shapes, and even scents. Hoyas can require a more complex nature of care. They need much higher lighting. However, in the right amount of lighting, they can sunstress to beautiful hues of red, pink, and even purple. They also have different needs when it comes to watering. Their substrate amendment differs a little from aroids. 

• Type of substrate

• • Hoyas generally like a very airy soil, with little water retention. 
  • I mix my own substrate with specific amendments that cater to the needs of the Hoyas roots and the structure of their leaves.
    • Hoya leaves are much thicker. Therefore, they can hold much more water within the leaves, making it so the roots need oxygen more than water. Although, this does not mean they should be watered like a succulent. The roots do still need moisture. 

Orchid Bark	Gives the roots something to latch onto, which lets the roots get thicker because they have a surface to expand on. Mimics the roots being able to grow up trees like they do in their native environments.
Perlite	Very airy and lightweight, as well as aerates the soil so the roots have spaces to get oxygenated while still being hydrated. Helps prevent rot from happening.
LECA	LECA stores water and the roots absorb it as it is released.
Worm Castings (worm poopies)	Natural fertilizer that the roots can absorb as needed rather than having to receive fertilizer every watering. Helps keep the pH balance maintained/acts as a barrier for the plant’s roots.
Activated Charcoal	It is a natural antimicrobial compound which helps absorb all of the bad toxins and prevents fungal and bacterial growth. Big help in the prevention of root rot, and stimulates the growth of roots.
Pumice Stone	I add this because it is not a retaining soil amendment, therefore the roots would have more access to oxygen. It adds aeration to the soil which keeps it loose, as well as giving the roots extra structure to attach to.  This aids in mimicking the structure the roots would naturally climb and grow on.

• Types of pots

• • • I like to use plastic nursery pots for my Hoyas. This is because excess water just slides right out and cannot be stored within the pot’s structure itself. As well as the roots not being able to stick to the side of the pot.
      • Hoyas have very thin and fragile roots. So, when repotting, if the roots were to stick to the sides of the pot there is a bigger risk of ripping the roots off and damaging them due to this. 
    • Generally I keep my Hoyas in a pot only 1” bigger in diameter than the root ball. This is because Hoyas like the roots to be more compacted in the pot, meaning they want to be more snug. Hoya roots are so small and thin that upsizing pots doesn’t occur frequently.

• Lighting

• • • Hoyas generally want brighter direct light, or at least bright indirect light. They require higher lighting not only to produce flowers, but also because of how thick their leaves are. 
      • With the leaves being thicker, it is harder for the light to get through the membrane on the leaf surface so that the plant can produce chlorophyll. 

• Fertilizing

• • • Hoyas like to be fertilized during their growing season. However, if grown inside, this can be year round. It is critical to fertilize them continuously when they are flowering. 

• Watering

• • Hoyas generally like to dry all the way out in between waterings. Because of their thicker leaves, they store more water within their leaves. They can get dry rot pretty easily if their watering needs aren’t maintained. This is because people think they should be treated like succulents, although they are the opposite when it comes to watering. Generally, they should be watered about once a week or before their leaves get flimsy. 

I hope this information was very helpful for you. Houseplants are actually a lot easier to own and take care of once you understand the basics. I am very proud of my plants and how far my knowledge about them has come. It is all about trial and error. What works for me won’t necessarily work for you. Everyone has a green thumb, it’s all about bringing it out and understanding.